Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery!). Guide to choosing and installing ceramic or stone tile backer boards for countertops, splashboards Properties & installation of Tile Backer Boards: Cement backer. I have found out that a jig saw cuts hard board easy and with less dust than the circular saw but you still have to cut outside and wear a mask. The FloorElf describe the meaning and differences in tile and stone designated as honed, rectified, and gauged. Travertine, tile spacing necessary? Do. It. Yourself. Community Forums. You mean kitchen? Anyway, for the joist span, go into your basement or crawl space and measure the length of the joist from supporting wall/beam to supporting wall/beam. The measure of span is the total span from below, even if the kitchen does not occupy the full span. Also check the joist size, 2x? I live in a condo, so I'm going to have to look up at the ripped out ceiling. Ok, stupid question here, sorry.. No, hardwood needs to go. Tile and stone won't survive over that kind of movement. Like I said before, you will need to add plywood. That 3/4" hardwood gives you room to add the plywood you need without building up your floor so much that you trap your appliances or have a big step up to the kitchen.(KITCHEN) Ok, I'll rip out the hardwood, not sure what's under it though. What's the best way to take it out w/o damaging what's underneath? Circular saw, or just rip out the hardwood strips one by one? Providing there is no height difference between one side and the other along the cracks, you can tile using an anti- fracture/crack suppression membrane first. That will prevent the cracks from telegraphing through your installation. If you have height variation along the crack, consider a nice vinyl (now isn't that an oxymoron?)Well there's a deep gash by the door in the concrete (BATHROOM). I can see it because several of the mosaic tiles came off there. Also, I can see some dipping cracks in the tile too. You mention tile doesn't need level, just flat. I also read that over concrete I don't need to put down any cement backer. So, for the cracked areas can I lay down thinset mortar as you mentioned, instead of SLU? Yeah, I've corrected several of them as well. Tile needs a rigid and stable substrate. Pour slc first over the ply and when you go to screw through it, you tear it up creating instability under your cbu. Also, when poured over ply for tile, there is a minimum thickness of pour that also needs to be reinforced with 2. Over cbu taped and thinsetted at the seams, once primed with the slc primer, slc can be feather edged, just as one would when pouring over a slab. Keep this in mind, tile doesn't care about level, it only cares about flat. You could trowel some thinset into a low spot (no more than abuut a 1/4" build up at a time) to achieve flat. When you start involving slc's, a floor that is slightly not flat, vs. KITCHEN)So after ripping up the hardwood and laying down plywood, can I put down the hardibacker and tile over that?If level doesn't really matter, just flat, do I need SLU in this situation? Download K Project Sub Indo Mp4 Player . Thanks for all the input on this one.The guys at Home Depot didn't tell me any of this and I doubt I would have come across this anywhere else.
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